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Green-Seeds.com
Fruits
& Others
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RUBUS (Ru'bus)
DESCRIPTION:
Rubus belongs to the Rose family. This group consists of erect, arching
or trailing, deciduous and evergreen shrubs found wild in Europe, North
America and Asia. Some are very ornamental, while most are grown for their
edible fruits. Of the varieties, the most popular are R. idaeus vulgatus,
commonly known as the European Raspberry, R. idaeus var. strigosus, the
American Raspberry, R. occidentalis, the Black Raspberry, Blackcap, or
Thimbleberry, and the Raspberry's cousin, the Blackberry. Varieties of
the Blackberry that also have deliciously edible fruits are commonly known
as the Dewberry, Boysenberry and Loganberry.
Raspberry
& Blackberry: The Blackberry is a close relative to the Raspberry,
but the two can easily be distinguished. When picked, the stem and receptacles
of the Raspberry stay on the plant and the fruit is hollow. However, the
stems of a Blackberry stay on the berry and the fruits are not hollow.
Blackberries aren't as popular as Raspberries, but are just as delicious.
Blackberries can yield more than Raspberries and there are cultivars that
still bear even after the summer Raspberries are gone. Blackberries aren't
as popular because the selection of cultivars isn't as wide as with Raspberries
and as of yet there aren't any cultivars that can consistently produce
in regions where winter temperatures fall below -20† F. However, Blackberries
will produce as far south as Ft. Myers, Florida. Blackberry canes have
more thorns and grow more vigorously, therefore need more attention to
keep them under control. Lastly, the berries are ordinarily softer than
those of the Raspberry and don't keep as well.
Raspberries:
Raspberries are found from the frigid arctic regions to the warm semi-tropics.
In the arctic, mature plants are small, with pretty little flowers and
fragrant fruit. In warm climates, Raspberries may form thickets of long,
climbing vines. In between are found the berries we use in jams and on
cereals, the European and American varieties of the red Raspberry and
the Black Raspberry. American Raspberries are round, while the European
varieties are long and conical. Raspberries can come in black, shades
of purple, and in various shades of yellow, from off-white to gold, to
a slightly orange tinge. There is a wide variation in flavor, firmness,
seediness and in drupelet cohesion (a term that describes the berry's
resistance to falling apart). Raspberries are an aggregate fruit, which
means they are composed of individual drupelets, held together by almost
invisible hairs. Each drupelet usually has a single seed, though a few
have two. Raspberry canes may be armed with formidable spines and make
great security hedges, while others may be nearly spineless; excellent
for easy harvesting and young children. Raspberries can be classified
in several ways. Raspberries have perennial roots and biennial foliage
and fruit-bearing canes, which means the branches live only two growing
seasons before dying. Raspberries bear either in the fall or summer. The
easiest to grow are the fall-bearers, called primocanes; these bear the
fruits on the canes developed during the current growing season. Once
snow is gone in late winter or early spring, prune off the last season's
canes just above ground level. The new canes that grow that summer will
produce the crop in the fall, as early as mid-July to late November, depending
on the variety and your location. Summer-bearers are called floricanes.
These bear fruits on canes that have overwintered from the previous year.
These aren't as easy to grow because the canes must be able to survive
the winter unharmed to produce a good crop and while the overwintered
canes are producing, new canes are forming and competing for nutrients.
Also, after bearing their crop, the second-year canes die and need to
be removed. Three things will help you choose which Raspberry variety
will suit your needs and climate. First, decide how you plan to use your
berries. If your going to eat them fresh, choose cultivars with intense
flavor and eye appeal. If you make preserves, texture and color after
processing are important. Yellow berries can be unattractive when processed.
Purple berries are great for processing and pastries. They have high yields
and are easily harvested. Their fragrance, flavor and rich red coloring
are superb. Secondly, decide which cultivar will suit your climate. For
example, northern gardeners should choose summer-bearing cultivars that
are winter hardy. In the south, summer-bearing cultivars should be chosen
according to the number of chill hours they require and the amount of
heat they'll withstand. Lastly, decide when you want to harvest your berries.
Summer-bearing varieties will produce for about three weeks. For a longer
harvest season, plant two summer-bearers, one early and one late, and
two in the fall, one early and one late. Gardeners in cold zones can plant
two summer-bearers but only an early fall-bearing type.
Blackberries:
Blackberries are less cold hardy than Raspberries, but they can withstand
more heat. There are only summer-bearing Blackberries, which ripen later
in the summer than Raspberries. Blackberries, like summer-bearing Raspberries,
produce fruit on the previous season's canes, which die after bearing
fruit. Blackberries are classified as either erect or semi-erect Eastern
types or trailing Western types. These classes may be either thorny or
thornless. Ordinarily, thorny Blackberries are sweeter. Thorny Blackberries
are hardier than thornless Blackberries because they can survive temperatures
down to -5† F. Thornless Blackberries are hardy down to about 0† F. They
are vigorous, erect or semi-erect growers that need much wider spacing
than black or purple Raspberries. Western Trailing Blackberries have fragrant,
flavorful, soft fruit that doesn't keep well. They are excellent for eating
or processing immediately. Western Trailing Blackberries also bear in
the summer on the second year's growth, though they produce less fruit
than the erect or semi-erect types. These Blackberries should be grown
on strong trellises. Western Trailing Blackberries are less hardy than
the Eastern Blackberries; their flowerbuds will die at temperatures below
15† F. These varieties will grow best along the Pacific coast and in mild
valleys inland from the sea where the soil hardly freezes. Boysenberries,
Dewberries and Logan berries are all trailing types of Blackberries
POTTING:
Raspberries and Blackberries have similar cultivation requirements. Any
differences between the types of Raspberries and between the two will
be mentioned below. Brambleberries can be grown in good, moisture retentive,
garden soil that drains well. The roots will die in waterlogged soil.
It would be beneficial to add organic materials to your soil, such as
compost and well-rotted manure. They should have a slightly acidic soil
with a pH of 6.0 to 6.7. If your soil is slightly alkaline, apply iron
and manganese. Brambles grow best in full sun, although if your climate
is hot it is better to site them in a location that will receive partial
shade during the hottest parts of the day. They should be sheltered from
hot summer and cold winter winds. They should receive adequate ventilation,
especially in humid atmospheres, to reduce chances of fungal diseases.
Brambles are sold as dormant, bare-rooted plants that can be planted in
the spring in cold-winter regions or in the spring or fall in regions
with mild winters. In sandy soil, cover with about two inches of soil;
in heavy soil, cover the roots with about an inch. Cut down the canes
right after planting or else they will bear fruit in the summer, thus
taking energy from the newly planted roots. You must make sure your plants
have enough water. If your soil is light and sandy, provide an inch of
water every four or five days. If your soil is rich in organic matter,
an inch every week or so should be sufficient. It is better to water at
the roots instead of spraying all over the branches, as this could cause
fungus. It would be beneficial to mulch the ground underneath the plants
with well-matured compost. In the spring, it should be drawn away from
around the plants until the ground warms and new shoots arise. Once the
soil temperatures have risen, re-apply mulch to keep the ground cool,
moist, and weed free. If you have good soil, a moderate application of
a balanced fertilizer each year is enough nutrients for your plants to
flourish. Avoid feeding high-nitrogen fertilizers, especially after the
plants have blossomed. Potassium is much more important in the development
of high quality fruit.
Raspberries
- Fall-bearers: This type is easy to grow. They need adequate water
and compost or fertilizer. Their growth will need to be monitored, as
they tend to spread. You can control their growth by placing plastic or
wooden barriers down about ten or twelve inches into the ground, since
Fall-bearers multiply from the base of the mother plants and from root
suckers. This type spreads 12 to 18 inches a year in all directions. If
you want a solid row in a year, space the new plants a foot apart. If
you want a solid row in two years, space them two feet apart. You need
to have some kind of trellis because the weight of the fruit will bend
the canes down. When the snow is gone at the end of the winter, cut or
mow the canes to the ground. Red and yellow Summer-bearers: These
types are treated like Fall-bearers. The main difference is that you need
to remove the second-year canes after they've produced a crop. As soon
as you've finished harvesting, cut off all the dead canes. Prune when
they are dry to minimize the spreading of fungus. You will increase the
air circulation and light penetration by thinning out the canes like this.
While you're removing the old canes, discard any new canes that are thin,
diseased, or growing in unwanted directions. In late winter or early spring,
thin all summer-bearing red and yellow cultivars. Leave only the heaviest,
strongest, and healthiest canes. There should only be two to four canes
per square foot of row. This will help in the development of large berries.
You can also prune off the top six inches of the canes at this time. Black
& purple Summer-bearers: Most of these types don't spread like
the yellow and red Raspberries. They should be planted about 3 feet apart.
When new canes have a good start on growth, first-year canes should be
thinned in late spring or early summer to about five or six of the heaviest
new canes to a clump. When the new canes are about waist high, prune off
the top 3 to 6 inches. This will cause them to branch out; the fruit of
the following year will grow from these new branches. If you don't prune
back the new canes, they will grow extremely long. If, when the next year
rolls around, the lateral branches are too high to harvest from, adjust
the height at which you prune them until they are at a reasonable height
for you. Second-year canes, which are the ones that bear the current season's
crop, need to be trimmed in late winter or early spring before the buds
swell. Only leave 8 to 10 of the largest branches and trim these back
to no more than 8 to 12 inches in length. Immediately after harvest, cut
out the dead, second-year canes. Black Raspberries are more susceptible
to fungus, therefore make sure to apply lime sulfur in early spring.
Blackberries
- Thorny: Thorny Blackberries should be treated like black or purple
Raspberries. When the first-year canes are about 36 to 48 inches high,
cut off the top few inches. This forces branching and stiffens the canes.
Cut the new lateral branches down to about a foot long in late winter
and completely remove thin ones. Thornless: Thornless Blackberries
should be planted 4 to 6 feet apart. Shorten first-year laterals to 12
to 18 inches in length and completely remove thin ones. In late winter,
thin canes to four to six canes per crown. Western Trailing: Plant
this type 6 to 8 feet apart and train them to a strong trellis. Let the
first-year laterals grow, cutting out only the diseased and weak canes.
Supporting
Brambles: Although you can allow Red Raspberry hybrids to grow as
shrubs, trellising your plants makes harvest easier and allows you to
control their growth much better. Keep these important factors in mind
when constructing a support system: there should be great air circulation
to keep foliage and branches dry, which prevents attack from fungus; it
should allow as much sunlight as possible to reach the foliage and branches
and keep the canes fairly erect so that you can be close to the row to
harvest the fruit at a comfortable height. Single-fence trellises take
up less room than double-fenced trellises, but they hold less canes. A
single-fenced trellis is made by inserting 4x4 posts 11/2 to 3 feet into
the soil and tying galvanized wires at 21/2 feet, 4 feet and 51/2 feet
from the ground between the posts (which are supported with guy wires).
The canes and long laterals are tied to the wires with twine or twist
ties. Canes can also be looped horizontally around the wires. A double-fence
trellis is constructed by inserting into the ground 4x4 posts that have
21/2 to 3 foot long, 2x4 wood crosspieces attached at 21/2 feet above
the soil's surface and 4 to 5 feet above the soil's surface. Wires are
then attached to each end of the crosspieces and connected from crosspiece
to crosspiece down the row. Cross wires may also be placed every 2 feet
along the length of the wires for additional support. You can tie canes
to the wires with twist ties with half to one side and half to the other,
leaving the center open for ventilation and light and new canes to penetrate.
Canes can be tied with twist ties to the wires and/or looped around them;
be sure to keep up with the growth as it is much easier to tie canes before
new foliage makes it difficult to do.
Harvest:
Summer-bearers can be ready to harvest by May or as late as July.
Fall-bearers can be harvested until frost. If your frost comes early,
cover the plants for a night or two with plastic or some other sheeting
material. Once the Raspberries are ripe, they must be picked or else they
will quickly turn bad. They should be observed closely as they ripen.
They should be picked as early in the day as possible, but not until the
dew has dried unless you plan to use them right away. Rinse them just
before use. The berries should be stored as close to freezing as possible.
It ordinarily takes 40 to 45 days from the time they bloom until they
ripen.
Pests
and Diseases: Raspberries (especially Black ones) are vulnerable to
fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases. There isn't much you can do about
viral infections, except purchasing virus-clean stock. Fungal and bacterial
disease can be hard to diagnose correctly, but if you take proper care
of you soil by adding compost and natural amendments and providing adequate
ventilation and water, you should escape many problems. A good preventative
is to spray the canes (once the leaves have emerged 1/4 to 1/2 inch) with
lime sulfur. This natural product helps prevent three major fungal diseases.
Timing is extremely important; if done too early, the spray won't be effective.
If you do it too late there won't be as much a problem; it may just burn
back the larger leaves a bit.
PROPAGATION:
Purchase edible varieties according to your region. Ornamental varieties
may be increased by sowing seeds as well as by cuttings or layering the
branches.
Temperature
noted by each variety is coldest temp. it can survive.
VARIETIES:
Raspberries: Floricane/Summer-bearing - Algonquin -25†F; Canby
-20†F; Bababerry -10†F; Chilliwack -15†F; Killarney -35†F; Latham -40†F;
Newburgh -20†F; Nova -30†F; Titan -25†F; Tulameen -5†F. Black Raspberries:
Floricane/Summer-bearing - Black Hawk -25†F; Bristol -20†F; Cumberland
-20†F; Haut -20†F; Jewel -25†F. Purple Raspberries: Floricane/Summer-bearing
- Brandywine -25†F; Estate -25†F; Royalty -25†F. For the following:
Zone noted is the northernmost zone in which fruit is likely to mature
before fall frost. Red or Yellow Raspberries: Primocane/Fall-bearing -
Amity Zone4; Autumn Bliss Zone3; Bababerry Zone6; Goldie Zone5; Heritage
Zone5; Redwing Zone3; Ruby Zone5; Summit Zone3.
Zone
noted is the northernmost zone in which fruit is likely to mature before
fall frost.
Blackberries:
Thorny (Erect) - Brazos Zone7-8; Cherokee Zone5; Cheyenne Zone6; Choctaw
Zone6; Darrow Zone5; Illini Hardy Zone4 (-20†F); Shawnee Zone6. Thornless
(Erect) - Arapaho Zone6; Chester Zone5 (-10†F); Dirksen Zone5; Hull
Zone5; Navaho Zone5. Western Trailing Blackberries - Lose their buds
at temperatures below 15†F: Marion; Olallie; Evergreen; Boysen (Boysenberry);
Logan (Loganberry); Kotata; Sunberry; Tayberry; Tummelberry.
Ornamental
Varieties: R. phoenicolasius (Wineberry); R. biflorus & R. lasiostylus
are commonly called Ghost or Whitewashed Brambles because of their pretty,
white stems; R. ulmifolius bellidiflorus (double, rose-red flowers); R.
Linkianus (double, white flowers); R. deliciosus (Boulder Raspberry);
R. spectabilis (Salmonberry); R. illecebrosus (Strawberry Raspberry);
R. parvifolius (dwarf); R. odoratus; R. Henryi; R. irenaeus; R. flagelliformis;
R. trivialis (Southern Dewberry); R. procerus (Himalaya Berry); R. leucostachys
(Broadleaf Evergreen Blackberry); R. Fockeanus; R. reflexus; R. chamaemorus
(Cloudberry). The fruits of most of these ornamental varieties are
bitter and inedible.
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Green - Seeds Co., Ltd.
81/10B Ho Van Hue Street, Phu Nhuan District, Ward 9, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Tel: +84 (8) 847 6901 - Fax: +84 (8) 844 1392 - Email: info@green-seeds.com
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