Planting
Indoor Planting:
Mother Nature has her own way of germinating seed. In the
field she provides warmth from the sun, moisture from the clouds(or your
garden hose or sprinkling can) and nutrients in the soil. Mother Nature
also has a way of disappointing us from time to time by either not
bringing one of the essential ingredients or bringing too much all at
once.
Many vegetables and flowers benefit from being started
indoors. Growing seedlings indoors provides the plant a jump start on the
season and is especially necessary in areas with shorter growing season.
Indoor planting is a more controlled environment and when done right will
produce strong and healthy seedlings timed perfectly to place outdoors
after the last frost.
For the grower, indoor planting can and should be fun. It
gives you the opportunity to start your gardening season a little sooner
than people e who buy their seedlings from the garden store. Can you
match the health and quality of garden store seedlings? Absolutely! And,
you can save mony while having the fun of watching your seedlings grow.
There are some important steps to growing healthy
seedlings indoors. Many people who attempt to grow seedlings indoors have
dis-appointing results. With a little knowledge and effort, everyone can
start seedlings indoors.
How To's:
Germination:
The essentials for good germination are:
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Viable seeds- Good seeds that are not hollow and are
not so old that germination rates are poor. You assume the seed is
viable when purchased, but it is a concern if you save your own seed
or get some from a fellow grower.
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Soil- A good, seed starting mixture that is light and
sterilized.
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Water- The soil should be moist, but not soaked.
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Warmth- Here is where growers can add to their
success. Different seeds require different temperatures for ideal
germination to occur. The ideal range for most, but not all seeds is
somewhere between 70 to 85 degrees.
Did you know? You can warm your pots to a more
ideal temperature by a variety of means. Some people buy heating
coils. Others make a box and add a light bulb inside. These are two of a
wide variety of ways to raise the temperature for better germination.. We
recommend you also have a thermometer to help maintain the proper
temperature range.
Here are my recommended step by step instructions to
maximize germination:
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Select the pots or containers you want to use. Plastic
containers with slots for individual plants are popular. But, consider
a size large enough for the roots to spread and not get "root
bound". Fiber containers are also popular, but roots can spread
and make separation more difficult.
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Fill the pots with soil. Use a Seed Starter mix if you
are a new grower. Many contain all the nutrients a new seedling
will need in it's first few weeks of life. Use of
"Sterilized" soil is strongly recommended to minimize the
risk of disease and even "critters" in the mix.
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Experienced growers will create their own starter mix
and add a concoction of a number of other things. I add a little ash
from the fireplace and sometimes add mulch. If you use mulch, make
sure it is clean of insects.
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Sow the seeds carefully in the pots. The seed packet
will contain planting depths and other instructions. A general rule of
thumb is twice the diameter of the seed. For fine and tiny seeds, you
can spread on top of the soil and they will submerge below the
soil as you water them.
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Water thoroughly and gently, but do not soak.
Remember, the seed is only slightly below the surface.
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Apply bottom heat if the room temperature is low. Once
the plant has sprouted, stop the bottom heat as it can harm the roots.
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Now the wait begins! Germination time is dependent
upon a number of things: warmth and type of seed being the primary
factors. Generally, a week to ten days for most seeds, but more or
less may not be unusual.
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Seeds do not need sunlight to germinate. But, the
instant they begin to emerge they need sunlight and lots of it.
TIP: Coating seeds with Captan to protect against
mold and fungus growth is a common practice.
Seedling Care and Nurturing:
Upon emerging from the soil, gardeners breath a big sigh
of relief. The big first step has successfully occurred! Close your eyes
and you can almost see the flower you planted reaching it's beautiful peak
or if a vegetable, you envision the blue ribbon at your local fair. As
we open our eyes, we immediately begin the new set of worries over
nurturing the newborn indoors for a short while longer. There are real
worries as most homes in springtime are cooler, shadier and damper than
plants like.
Let there be light- - and plenty of it: The newborn
seedling immediately needs light, as much and as direct as possible.
Placing it by a window with a southern exposure is the first step. But
this alone may not prove to be enough for the seedling to grow healthy and
strong. The sun is not up as long in the spring as it is in the
summer. Second, there are many rainy spring days with little or no direct
sun. And, many of us do not have a south facing window. You should
also acquire an artificial Grow Light and place the seedlings under it on
cloudy days and at night. The seedling will benefit from as much
sun, real and artificial, as possible.
Let There be Water- - in just the right amount:
Provide water to the plants every couple of days. You do not and should
not soak the soil each night. Overly wet soil is one of the basic
ingredients for damping off disease. Let the soil dry out a little on the
top then water thoroughly.
Feed me, feed me: The seedling does not need a lot
of extra nutrients at first. Your potting soil has some, the seed also had
some stored inside of it. After several days, add a little Liquid
Fertilizer to the water, but you do not need to give it full strength.
Let there be no Damping Off Disease:
Those of us who have grown seedling indoors for any number
of years know what "Damping Off" disease. This is a white mold
that forms in the top of the soil. Damping Off disease flourishes in cold,
wet damp weather along with little sunshine. It quickly spreads across the
soil and wilts the seedling. Take it's habitat away and the disease can
not survive. Your plants love just the opposite conditions. So the more
you make conditions ideal for your newborn plants, the more likely you
will avoid this problem.
If you do experience problems, do not give up hope. Here
are some things you can do to minimize or eliminate disease problems:
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First, get the plant in direct sunlight if at all
possible.
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Stop watering until the surface is very dry.
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Scrape as much of the mold off the soil as possible.
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Stir the top of the soil as much as possible. Do this
once or twice a day. It will also speed drying.
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Add some soil, although this may or may not produce
results.
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Increase room air circulation. You can gently blow air
on your plant trays with a small fan.
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Avoid sowing your seeds in the basement and leaving
them there for a couple of days. While the trays are conveniently out
of the way, this is a perfect breeding ground for Damping Off Disease.
Outdoor Planting:
The vast majority of plants can be started directly
outdoors. The methods vary along with the type of plant. Read up on the
plants you are using to assure proper planting.
Here are some useful steps and information to guide you
along the way:
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Determine if the plants can withstand light frosts and
freezes.
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Find out the last frost dates for your area and time
your planting accordingly.
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Consider buying pretreated seeds or coating the seeds
with a fungicide prior to planting.
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Prepare, your garden soil.
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Decide upon the method of to plant your seeds- in rows
or furrows, in hills. Also determine whether you will slightly elevate
of mound the soil, or whether you will make a slight trench.
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Plant the seeds according to the instructions on the
packet. The most common problem of new and experienced growers is to
resist the temptation to crowd them into a smaller space than the
particular variety requires.
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A word about seed depth: The most common mistake in
planting is to sow the seeds too deep. The rule of thumb is plant at
twice the diameter of the seed. For fine seed, spread them on top of
the soil and water them in.
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If your soil is dry, water thoroughly. Usually in
spring planting there is enough water in the soil and more rain is on
the way. Most seeds rot in wet soils,so make sure to provide good
drainage.
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For initial germination and growth no fertilizer is
needed. But, side dressing the plants wit a general purpose fertilizer
will help the new seedlings to thrive.
Transplanting Seedlings
The day you plant your seedlings is one of the more
exciting and anxious days. Often we start the seedling too early and it is
growing so big that it needs to get into the ground. Or perhaps it is not
getting enough sunshine or you want to get that jump start on the season.
Whatever the reason, it is important either to wait until the chance of
frost is over, or be prepared to spend time protecting the young seedling.
Hardening off:
Seedlings should be "Hardened off" before they
are planted into your garden. This is accomplished by setting them outside
for several days prior to your planting date. Increase the amount of time
each day into evening hours. This accustoms the plant to wider variations
in temperature.
Tip: Toughen up the stem of tall plants to help
them withstand winds which they do not experience indoors. You can do this
by lightly brushing the tops of the plants with a newspaper, or your hand.
Do this two or three times and in all directions. Repeat this for a few
days before transplanting. The plant may temporarily slow it's growth in
height to concentrate on developing a thicker stem. This is good.
Here are some simple idea and tips to get your growing
season off to a good start:
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If you have not yet prepared the planting site, do so
a few days or week before transplanting.
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If you have grown the seedlings indoors, you should
"harden them off" a few days prior to planting. This is accomplished
by placing them outside during the day for a few days prior to
planting. Each day extend the hours and make sure to bring them in at
night.
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Dig a hole in the soil where you want the plant to go.
Make the hole three or four times larger than the size of the roots.
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For peat pots, you can place the plant pot and all
right in the soil. You can make slits and/or holes in the peat pot to
allow the roots to escape more readily. Use care not to disturb the
roots or slice them.
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If you are using plastic or fiber containers,
carefully pull out a plant. Remember, the less you disturb the roots,
the less transplant shock.
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Fill in soil around the pot and plant. Use garden soil
or mix in compost. You can cover any or all of the stem up to the
primary(first) set of leaves.
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Do not push the soil heavily down around the plant.
You can always add nutrient rich compost if the soil compacts and
sinks.
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Thoroughly the transplant immediately after planting
with a light solution of Liquid Fertilizer. Repeat this for a couple
of days if the soil is dry and there is no rain.
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Keep the soil around the seedling moist. Use a light
solution of liquid fertilizer in the first few weeks as the roots will
have plenty of nutrients if you prepared the bed properly. You need
not water too deeply at first as the roots are shallow.
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Avoid over watering . You do not want to wash
nutrients out of the bed that you prepared.
Transplanting Shock
Transplant shock is a temporary stunting of the leaves and
branches of a plant immediately after transplanting. The plant temporarily
re-focuses it's energy to growing new roots sue to damage which occurred
in the transplanting process. As long as major damage was not made, the
plant should recover and thrive. A little help from you will minimize the
degree of transplant shock.
Here are some helpful tips and hints to aid your plant
during planting and immediately after to avoid major transplant problems:
During planting treat your plant as gently as possible.
Take care to minimize any disturbance to the roots.
"Harden off" your plants. This is a process of
exposing the plant to the outdoors for increasing amounts of time prior to
transplanting.
Soak the roots with a liquid fertilizer the night before
transplanting. This will help promote root growth and plant vigor.
Provide plenty of water immediately after transplanting
and for a few days after transplanting.
Don't pack down the soil. This only serves to disturb more
roots.
Transplant during early evening hours if possible. This
allows the plant to recover a bit over night and avoids a hot sun beating
down upon adding to the plant's stress.
If you have a choice, transplant during a cloudy day and
during cooler weather. If the weather is hot and cooler weather is in the
forecast, your plant is further ahead if you wait a few days for the cold
front to pass through.
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