GREEN-Seeds.com
General Cultivation Techniques

Mother Nature has her own way of germinating seed. In the field she provides warmth from the sun, moisture from the clouds(or your garden hose) and nutrients in the soil. Mother Nature also has a way of disappointing us from time to time by either not bringing one of the essential ingredients or bringing too much all at once.

Some seeds are best planted directly into the garden. While others really need to to started indoors to help the seedling get off to a good start or because the length of growing time in your area is shorter than the time the plant needs to bear fruit or to flower. While others still are optional and can be planted indoors or out.

Many flowers and vegetables are started indoors. But, do you know the reasons and benefits that will help you determine which plants to start indoors?

First, the growing season in many areas is shorter than the time the plant needs to produce flowers or fruit. Indoor planting allows many gardeners to grow plants and varieties that are not native to their areas.

Extending the harvest is another major reason why gardeners will start their seedling indoors. Many flowers and vegetables will produce weeks earlier if planted indoors. Marigolds for example, will benefit by flowering earlier than if direct sowed and will continue to produce flowers right up to the first frost.

Everyone wants that first tomato of cucumber of the season. It tastes so delicious and we can hardly wait. And, there is friendly neighborhood pride and bragging rights associated with being the first to produce fruit for the season.

Healthier seedlings make for stronger and better plants. Healthy children make strong adults. We have been saying this for years and years. The same applies in the plant world. Give a seedling a healthy start and it will pay you dividends all season long. That healthy start comes in the form of a controlled, indoor environment.

Simply because it's fun. Like any hobby, gardeners really enjoy their sport. To some it's the challenge of growing difficult petunias or peppers and putting out a seedling that is better that you can find in any gardening store. To others it is a way of extending the hobby into those late winter and early spring months when most gardeners are chomping at the bit to get some dirt under their fingernails.

Thee general rule of thumb is to start transplants indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Some plants such as peppers and petunias require more. Other plants like the cabbage family and head lettuce require less. Some people will do a series of plantings, especially for lettuces and cabbages to create succession plantings and extend the harvest. Ten head of lettuce in two weeks is just too much for most families. But, a couple heads a week is just fine. The seed packet will give some indication of indoor planting times and experimentation will also help you to fine tune when to start.

The essentials for good germination when planting indoors are:

• Viable seeds- Good seeds that are not hollow and are not so old that germination rates are poor. Some seed can remain viable for years if stored properly. Others normally last only a season in storage.

• Soil- A good, seed starting mixture that is light and sterilized.

• Water- The soil should be moist, but not soaked.

• Warmth- Here is where growers can add to their success. The ideal seed starting temperatures vary by type of seed. Most are between 70 to 85 degrees farenheit. Some like peas and early season vegetables will germinate at a lower temperatures even as low as fifties. Others like pumpkins and peppers like the higher end or even slightly above this range. Seeds can be germinated outside of their range, but the further away the ideal range for the particular seed, the lower the germination rate.

Tip: Test your seed for viability in advance, especially if you have saved seed from last year. Plant a few seeds well before the normal planting time. Count the number you planted and the number that germinate. The resulting percentage is your expected germination rate.

Here is our recommended step by step instructions to maximize germination:

1. Purchase sterilized seed starting mixture. This is a light weight medium that has all the nutrients your seed needs at birth. Experienced growers will often create their own or amend store bought soil. This is part of the fun of planting for experienced garden hobbiests. If you are a new grower, stick with the seed starting mix until you gain some experience .

2. Select the right containers. So what's the big deal? If you select a container that is too small, your seedling can outgrow it's home before you are ready to transplant. A root bound seedling does not translate into maximum growth. Large paper mache or peat pots promote more open development of roots, but separating individual plants later, can result in tearing of roots and increased transplant shock. Using the individualized seed pots and trays helps to minimize transplant shock.

3. Fill the containers with the seed starting mix and water thoroughly. Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking.

4. Plant the seeds. Another seemingly easy step. But new gardeners have a habit of planting seeds too deep. We recommend planting seeds a little less than the recommended depth. You can carefully add soil around the seedlings at a later point if needed.

5. Provide bottom warmth to the seeds. Some people use a heating coil, while others put them on a warm oven, by the fireplace and in a sunny window, skipping the expense of a heating coil or other devices.

6. Creating a seed incubator is also popular. Create a wooden or plastic enclosure large enough to hold the containers you are using. Put a light inside the enclosure. The heat from the light will raise the temperature and create a greenhouse effect. It is important to measure the temperature to make sure it does not get too warm. Temperature will vary depending upon room temperature, wattage of light bulb and size for the enclosure.

7. Now the wait begins! The time required to germinate may be a few days to a few weeks. Germination time varies widely. It can usually be found on the seed packet. For seeds with a long germination period, we recommend you plant in smaller groups over a couple of weeks. This way if the first group does not germinate, you won't be waiting three weeks to find out and before starting a new planting.

TIP: Coat the seeds with Captan to protect against mold and fungus growth. Or buy pre-treated seeds where available. Fungus problems are common with indoor planting.

As your seedling emerges from the soil, most growers breath a big sigh of relief. Close your eyes and you can almost see the plant grow and flourish into it's full beauty, producing an enviable profusion of flowers or vegetables. As you open your eyes, you will immediately begin the new set of worries over nurturing the newborn indoors for a short time while the outdoor weather catches up with your dreams.

Thin Seedlings as needed- - Plants in your garden do not like to be crowded. Ditto with your seedlings who need all the sun and nutrients that they can get.You may want to leave a few extras for a while as mortality rate of seedlings can be high.

Let there be light, and plenty of it- - As soon as the newborn seedling begins to emerge, it seeks light. Your newborn needs as much and as direct a light source as possible. Placing it by a window with a southern exposure is the first step. But this alone may not prove to be enough for the seedling to grow healthy and strong. First, the sun is not up as long in the spring as it is in the summer. Second, there are many rainy spring days with little or no direct sun. You should also acquire an artificial Grow Light and place the seedlings under it on cloudy days and at night. The seedling will benefit from as much sun as possible.

Let There be Water, in just the right amount- - Provide water to your seedling every couple of days. You do not and should not soak the soil each night. Overly wet soil is one of the basic ingredients for damping off disease. Let the soil dry out a little on the top then water thoroughly. Watering from the bottom is also preferred. If you have a seed tray, add water to the bottom of the tray and the soil will absorb it through the bottom holes in your container...your container does have holes in the bottom, doesn't it!?!

Feed me, feed me- - The seedling does not need a lot of extra nutrients in it's first few days of life. Your soil starting mix usually comes with a balanced formula of nutrients that the seedlings need. After several days, adding a little liquid fertilizer to the water is helpful, but you do not need to give it full strength.

If the roots begin to come out the bottom of the pot, it is time to plant your seedling outdoors, weather permitting. If it is still too cool, keep the bottom of the tray moist, or put some extra soil in the bottom of the tray, or transplant seedlings to a larger pot as many plants do not like to be root bound.

Guard against Leggy Plants- - Seedlings are leggy when their main stem or stalk grows tall and thin and can hardly support the leaf structure. It is caused by insufficient sunlight and a sheltered environment. Indoors, they do not experience the effect of wind and do not need to develop structure to defend against it. Most seedlings do not even experience a slight breeze. When transplanted outdoors, "leggy" plants can be damaged or broken by the wind.

Tip: Take your hand,or a couple sheets of newspaper and fan the plants a few times a day. You can even lightly brush the tops of the plants, brushing back and forth in varying directions. You may notice the plants seem to slow down for a period. What they are really doing is building a stronger stem or stalk.

Those of us who have grown seedling indoors for any number of years know what "Damping Off" disease. This is a white mold that forms in the top of the soil. Damping Off disease flourishes in cold, wet damp weather along with little sunshine. It quickly spreads across the soil and wilts the seedling. Take it's habitat away and the disease can not survive. Plants on the other hand love just the opposite conditions so the more you make conditions ideal for your plants, the more likely you will avoid Damping Off Disease and other fungal problems.

If you do experience problems, do not give up hope. Here are some things you can do to minimize or eliminate disease problems:

• First, get the plant in direct sunlight if at all possible.

• Stop watering until the surface is very dry.

• Water only from the bottom.

• Scrape as much of the mold off the soil as possible.

• Stir the top of the soil without disturbing the roots. It will also speed drying.

• Add some soil, although this may or may not produce results.

• Increase room air circulation. You can gently blow air on your plant trays with a small fan.

• Avoid sowing your seeds in the basement and leaving them there for a couple of days. While the trays are conveniently out of the way, this is a perfect breeding ground for Damping Off Disease.